Star Trek, Metal Phaser Nozzle, v2 West Coast Collector, Mid Grade Copy

Description: In general: all parts are shipped with the machine finish as shown in the LISTING PHOTOS. Final finishing is by the Buyer (prop maker) and may include; polishing, graining, distressing, acid washes, electroplating, and other treatments as selected and executed by the Buyer. Most parts will have some cosmetic blemishes that the Buyer may/may-not want to remove or enhance. Thank You. Metal Phaser Nozzle, v2 West Coast Collector Mid Grade Copy Museum Grade Reproduction, LSR 12mm or LED Ready, fits all types of TOS Phasers Star Trek Aluminum Alloy Nozzle, LSR 12mm or LED Ready, for all types and brands of P2 Phaser bodies, (acrylic-emitter/LSR 12mm not included) PRICE IS FOR EACH ALUMINUM NOZZLE; NO LSR 12mm MODULE, NO PHASER SHELL, NO PHASER STAND. About The Last Three photos: This v2 jonpaultrek2012 ™ Nozzle has improved set accuracy as we have just changed-over our crafting method to insure the graining on the Nozzle knurl is Set Accurate when delivered. For Prop purists we know you care and will be pleased that you no longer need to fuss about this detail. Fits everything.Art Asylum retrofit how-to-pictures shown for your pleasure, Phaser and other items not included. Gorgeous, Jewelry like finish, turned 6063-T5 Aluminum Alloy (British HE9), not hard anodized: ready for 12mm LSR 12mm module or traditional light bulb installation. This Aluminum Nozzle Mid-Grade replica is a one part design (no ratchet effect) extensively prototyped and engineered & re-engineered by me to allow a quick retrofit to AA and DS Type II Phaser TOS shells (and all others), while being the most efficient combined heat-sink & heat-dissipator possible when used with a standard 12 mm diameter LSR 12mm module. I also have this item listed with a prop-stud back for ¼ inch hole mount. Visit my eBay store. The aluminum is NOT HARD ANODIZED and is of a more workable alloy type than others on the market. Why?, I used a special 6063-T5 un-anodized aluminum because it is workable by a prop builder. Anodizing hardens the material surface making it VERY difficult to; machine, grain and/or, further polish. I want you to have options. My aluminum is easy to; mirror polish even-more, drill, file, acid weather, rolex grain and, do anything else you can come up with, your the prop builder and I say have some fun! I also do not like anodizing because it does not look Prop Authentic to the 1960s TV show. Working It: Put a wood ½ inch dowel in a drill, sand THE DOWEL down to for the 31/64 hole diameter, mount the part, and you have a mini-lathe to; file, grain, polish, and do what you like, to this part. Nozzle Size & Details: Shown in listing photographs; overall length is 1.74" (math error in image). Mounting Hole Dimension: Split-style shell or other detail by you; 0.600" diameter shaft hole, 0.800 inch diameter interior collar. Some builders use a 0.800" hole in a non-split-shell and retain the nozzle with a hand cut sheet metal horse-shoe shape retainer, using a U shape 5/8 inch diameter cut-out in a small rectangular piece of thin metal (0.016" thick). Compatible With: Everything, remember you're the prop builder ! Acrylic Emitter (not provided in this auction): Accepts standard 5/16 aftermarket emitter, or visit my eBay store as I sell emitters too. You're the prop builder ! Acrylic Emitter Fit (not provided in this auction): The aluminum has a hole 0.309 inch for the acrylic. This may be a force-fit (no glue if you choose none). My emitters drop right in, like magic, and can be provided with or without holes; visit my eBay store.LSR 12mm Module Size: Fits standard 12 mm diameter modules of both full or half length (use the full length ones). Modules are available on eBay from seller DTR-LPF. I SUGGEST YOU ORDER LSR 12mm MODULES WITHOUT CHROME FOCUS RINGS FOR EASE OF INSTALLATION, THESE COIN-EDGE CHROME RINGS ALSO CAN BE TAKEN OFF BY YOU. You're the prop builder ! LSR 12mm Module Cavity Nominal: new larger 12.02 mm to 12.04 mm (31/64 approx.) diameter. Thermal Conduction: My 6063 is rated at 210 W/m*K 15% higher than 6064 or 6262 (higher is better for LSR 12mm applications). 6064 (also known as 6262) is great for anodizing but has a lower thermal conduction rating of 172 W/m*K. The one part design is a most efficient combined heat-sink & heat-dissipator . Accurate: I think you can't get more accurate than this nozzle, you can own the same type of nozzle seen in most of the Star Trek episodes on TV, aka a MidGrade. This nozzle is entirely hand machined on a lathe and indexed end-mill. The front radius is very small to conform to the screen captures I reviewed and my first hand observations of the Paul G. Allen Phaser at the EMP/MoPOP ( p.s. thanks TV re-mastering too...). You get the Nozzle you see in the photographs, but ask questions anyway.....live long and question.. My LSE Module Adjustment and Install suggestion is as follows: This is a suggestion and you are the prop maker responsible for the result, aka not me. 1. LSR Module; remove chrome focus ring from brass-lens-assembly and discard chrome ring only (don't lose the brass lens assembly and related backing-spring). 1a. Remember all beams are rectangular (not round). 2. Mount LSR Module in a heat-sinking fixture and refocus the now Unfocused lens so the beam is tight. 3. I use a $5 aluminum fixture from AiXiz (https://www.ebay.com/itm/12mm-Aluminum-Laser-Heatsink-Mount-Fixture-Holder-445nm-Burning-Diode-Module-USA/362170434291?hash=item54530a42f3:g:nHAAAOSwmgJY2JjV) on eBay, mount the heat-sink fixture on a cigar-box with; a switch and battery-power sled. 4. Focus at 10 to 20 feet away, wearing safety goggles, so one can observe when the beam-spot appears "tight" on the wall surface. 4a. I use a razor (module-off) to turn the brass-lens-assembly as the focus ring was removed in Step One. 5. Once focused; Mark the back of the module with a sharpie to indicate the horizontal orientation of the rectangular beam. 5a. Consider a drop of Loc-Tight Light (get it on eBay) on the brass lens assembly to keep it locked in place. Remove excess with Q-Tip. 6. Caution, the modules get hot so flip-on & flip-off just long enough to observe the beam spot on the wall. 7. Instal the acrylic emitter perfectly square and aligned in the aluminum nozzle. 8. A 12mm (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eisco-Labs-Aluminum-Rod-for-Base-5m-Length-12mm-Diamater-Lab-Apparatus/ aluminum rod, with a groove filed at last 1 1/2 inches on the LONG side, makes a great emitter fixture, get the rod on eBay. 9. The groove releases any suction that occurs from the vaseline and the post the EPOXY setting of the acrylic emitter. 10. NOTE: Groove is very important in 12mm aluminum rod. 11. Prior to using this rod-fixture with acrylic emitter and epoxy; coat with vaseline as a glue bond-breaker or the rod will get glued to the aluminum emitter. 12. Secure the vaseline coated 12mm rod in a vise LEVEL ALL WAYS, next slide the aluminum nozzle onto the rod, now coat the interior of the aluminum-nozzle emitter hole lightly with epoxy and slide in the emitter giving it a gentle twist (JUST ONE TWIST) to spread the epoxy evenly. Check for alignment and squareness. 12a. After the epoxy sets a few hours; check to see the hole is 100% clear; if not clean out from back with a 5/32 inch drill bit, but by hand (no power tools this step).13. Install the module in the nozzle so the sharpie-line is in-line with the set-screw securement hole (you must tap the pre drilled hole and provide the No. 8-32 set screw). 14. Snug the set-screw (not gorilla tight). 15. If you observe Splash (splash is the beam coming out straight BUT ALSO bouncing off the interior-wall or the emitter hole) the tips of exacto blades make good shims just insert and snap-off AND YOU CAN usually get the splash to go away. If results are not good the problems are most likely; (1) focus LSR module chrome focus ring was not removed, (2) LSR 12mm module is too far back in aluminum nozzle as; the focus ring is in-the-way OR, the module is out-of-tolerance and, or the acrylic emitter is glued-in too far back and lastly, (3) the acrylic was installed a little crooked. Troubleshoot and try try again. PASTE THIS LINK FOR LSR 12mm eBay SHOP DTR-LPF (https://www.ebay.com/str/dtr-lpf)PASTE THIS LINK FOR; EXPLODED PHASER LSR 12mm SLIDESHOW; YOUTUBE VIDEO (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGj03TyV1dA)PASTE THIS LINK FOR; AA/DS PHASER-LSR 12mm HOW-TO; YOUTUBE VIDEO (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3eY0ImkO7Q&t=1192s)PHASER METAL PARTS; Prior to use, all Metal Parts MUST be cleaned to remove machine coolant residue. THE RESIDUE IS NOT VISIBLE AND DOES NOT FEEL OILY, BUT IT IS THERE! PASTE LINK FOR; EXPLODED PHASER LSR 12mm SLIDESHOW; YOUTUBE VIDEO (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGj03TyV1dA) PASTE LINK FOR; AA/DS PHASER-LSR 12mm HOW-TO; YOUTUBE VIDEO (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3eY0ImkO7Q&t=1192s) PASTE LINK FOR; TOS-PHASER FIN FINISHING; YOUTUBE VIDEO (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiPjLhyzJzo) PASTE LINK FOR; TOS-PHASER SIDE-RAIL FINISHING; YOUTUBE VIDEO (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm0_nCrydZo&t=20s) METAL PARTS; Prior to use, all Metal Parts MUST be cleaned to remove machine coolant residue. RESIDUE IS NOT VISIBLE AND DOES NOT FEEL OILY, BUT IT IS THERE! Use dish-washing detergent such as "Dawn" or "Palmolive" to insure a clean part. CLICK BELOW FOR: MY YouTube CHANNEL Some Star Trek Prop History For Inquiring Minds: Most of these Prop Makers and Technicians have passed-on. Below are old-timer accounts of convention conversations before conventions were really a fad. (all these are therefore 2nd hand stories) The persons quoted worked forthe studio. Mr. Bob Stone was Star Trek's machinist and made all the metal prop parts for all three seasons of the show. Parts were made to order for each episode as in those times (the 1960's) as machining was done by hand and there was no advantage to making short runs (and no studio funding either). Each episode had a specific budget. Speaking of budgets, Bob relied on his Star Trek friend Robert Archer (VP of Budgeting for the show) in getting a little leeway on the $ so he could do the best possible job. According to Bob there was no magic drum of Phaser Nozzles and every job was a mad-dash to meet the filming deadlines. Because parts were made only to order, parts varied quite a bit. These variations can be seen in all the surviving examples of TOS hand props from Phaser to Communicators and Tricorders. Sometimes it was not that a new design was needed but rather that when one Wings it from a sketch, in a hurry using what is on-hand, you get an unintended-new-version of something (in the 1960's the TV audience never could see that). Robert Archer and Bob Stone worked closely together so when the show was canceled suddenly in season three, Robert Archer ended up with a nice collection of hand props. Richard Heimer made the molds for hand props. He also did all the casting and forming. This included; Vacuum form bucks, Fiberglass molds and urethane molds. Again, according to him most work is done in the normal Hollywood maddening rush. He shared with his convention friends that there were many molds made from molds when the production schedule demanded this. He also shared that when the show ended he rescued the molds from being discarded by putting them in his garage. James Ruggs (b. 1919) was the director of special effects for the show. He handled and repaired many of the props on-set. When the show was canceled in season three he rescued many hand props and even some models from the scrap heap. Dick Ruben, Prop & Art Assistant on the show, got his Set-Used Klingon disruptor from James. Mr. Ruggs held on to his rather large Star Trek collection for many years. It is widely known that Greg Jein got his Holy-Grail Hero Phaser from James. In closing a nod to Mr. Ruck, a prop technician, who reported that he repaired some hand props hundreds of times as they were often damaged during filming. He had also shared that the fiberglass Mid-Grade's, and some other props often used basswood strips between the seams to establish uniform dimensions. Watch some YouTube Star Trek TOS bloopers to see what he was talking when it comes to repairs and hand props flying apart. NOTICE © and TM 2021. jonpaultrek2012 ® is a registered trademark with the United States Patent and Trademark Office Reg. No.6,431,925 The products sold here are all jonpaultrek2012™® & © 2023 works, are all; custom manufactured & engineered. Jonpaultrek2012 And related marks and logos are trademarks of Jonpaultrek2012 LLC. All Rights are hereby explicitly Reserved. United States Patent & Trademark Office Reg. No. 6,431,925.The jonpaultrek2012 company Supports the right to free expression and the value of the copyright. The purpose of the copyright is to encourage writers, filmmakers and artists to produce the creative works that enrich our culture. All scanning, uploading, and distribution of the content of this web posting without permission is theft of the author's Intellectual Property. if you would like permission to use the material from this website (Other than for the intended review purposes) Please contact me for permission. All new products sold on this website are produced under license From: jonpaultrek2012™® LLC, Florida corporation, located in the United States of America.

Price: 30.89 USD

Location: Brooksville, Florida

End Time: 2024-08-11T00:56:04.000Z

Shipping Cost: 4.99 USD